Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk is not as busy as many. PHOTO: CANTO-SHUTTERSTOCK Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk NORTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALANDSTART: Onepoto FINISH: Hopuruahine (or vice-versa)DISTANCE: 46kmDURATION: Three to four daysCHALLENGE LEVEL: 5 starsWHEN TO WALK: October-May Less a hike, more an extended forest-bathing experience, this lakeside route offers an immersive introduction to the human and natural history of Te Urewera – a region recognised in law as a living person. This is the traditional homeland of the Ngāi Tūhoe, the iwi known as the “Children
of the Mist’’, who care for the tracks as well as the environment. A swathe of undulating emerald greenery, it’s the epitome of New Zealand’s primal wilderness, encompassing the North Island’s largest expanse of native forest. Midsummer, when sunshine is most likely to sparkle off Lake Waikaremoana, is the perfect time to hike. You can start at either end of the horseshoe-shaped route, though most set out from Onepoto. “Most’’ being relative: hikers are sparse compared with other Great Walks. Wildlife, though — well, that’s
not so scarce. Over three or four days, starting with the steady haul up to Panekire Bluffs and ridge for sweeping lake views, you’ll traverse rainforest and “goblin forest”, wetland and scrub, grassy flats and shoreline stretches, misty valleys and hillsides striped with cascades. Among the rimu, red beech, tōtara, rātā and many other tree species, you might spy — or hear — almost any of North Island’s native forest birds. You’ll be regaled by the piping, trilling, whistling call of the tūī and the
soft cooing of the kererū. Come nightfall, when you’re relaxing in one of the cheerful huts or campsites en route, the repeated whistling of a male kiwi tells you that New Zealand’s national bird is foraging nearby. Immersion in nature never felt so accessible or rewarding. Food: Bring supplies; purify drinking water. Getting there: You’ll need to organise transport to your chosen start point; parking is most convenient near Onepoto. Water taxis (see ngaituhoe.iwi.nz) link both ends of the trail between October and April. Planning:
Book campsites or huts (via bookings.doc.govt.nz) as early as possible. Safety: Pack for rapidly changing weather and be aware of potentially slippery trails. Info: doc.govt.nz Many pilgrims stay at nearby Yunomine Onsen (hot-spring village) for a soothing soak. PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES Kumano Kodo: Nakahechi Route HONSHU, JAPANSTART: Takijiri-ojiFINISH: Nachi TaishaDISTANCE: 66km DURATION: Four to five daysCHALLENGE LEVEL: 3 starsWHEN TO WALK: March-May and September-November Even emperors enjoy a good hike. OK, we’re massaging the facts a little — but the point remains that over 1100
years ago, it was Japanese Emperor Uda who travelled to the Buddhist shrines of Kumano on the mountainous Kii Peninsula, setting a trend that saw dozens more imperial pilgrimages here over the following four centuries. The region was sacred to Shinto before Buddhism took hold in Japan: yamabushi (ascetics) have trekked here from Yoshino since at least the late 7th century, and Kumano is believed to have had religious significance stretching back into prehistory, when it was thought to be inhabited by many deities. Today,
the objectives of the many who still tramp the Kumano Kodo — ‘‘Old Roads to Kumano’’ — remain the three grand Kumano Sanzan shrines: Kumano Hayatama Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha and Kumano Hongu Taisha, that last devoted to Izanagi-Okami, a goddess said to have created Japan. Rather like the Camino de Santiago in Spain, and also Unesco World Heritage-listed, the Kumano Kodo isn’t one route but several paths. Five interconnected pilgrimage trails evolved over the centuries after Uda’s visit, spidering out from (or, rather, up
to and connecting) the three shrines and largely revived since the 1990s. Fewer emperors and aristocrats make the trek today, but many other hikers are following in those imperial footsteps. Some come to explore spiritual beliefs, but most simply walk to experience the glorious landscapes and traditional customs, to bathe in onsen (natural hot springs) and sample local cuisine — specialties include shishi-nabe (wild boar hotpot), river fish and mehari sushi (rice wrapped in takana, pickled mustard leaves). Most popular of the trails is the
Nakahechi, known as the Imperial Route. With its start a short bus ride from Kii-Tanabe Train Station, and its end even closer to Shingu Station, it’s accessible, attractive and achievable for hikers with a moderate level of fitness and experience. Clearly waymarked and made up of mostly well-maintained paths (with plenty of steps), this stretch is open year-round — though both hot, humid, rainy summer and chilly winter are less than perfect times to trek. Autumn’s ideal. From the trailhead at the shrine of Takijiri-oji,
the path first climbs to Takahara village and continues to Chikatsuyu, home to the Kumanokodo Nakahechi Museum of Art. Beyond, tree-lined steps lead up to the Tsugizakura-oji; nearby inns and guesthouses make this a convenient overnight stop. The following day switchbacks through wooded hills, sometimes emerging into fields or tea plantations, passing beneath wooden torii (gates) and visiting the prestigious Hosshinmon-oji before reaching Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine in the valley. Many pilgrims stay at nearby Yunomine Onsen (hot-spring village) for a soothing soak. Prepare for
another testing climb the following day through cedar and cypress forest to Hyakken-gura Peak, offering amazing mountain vistas; then, it’s a long descent to the village of Koguchi on the Akagi River. The final day’s route rises and then drops to the Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine, picturesquely perched before 133m-high Nachi, Japan’s tallest single-drop waterfall — its clear cascades a suitably cleansing end to a purifying pilgrimage. Food: Many pilgrims eat at their accommodation, which will likely also provide picnic lunches; there are some stores
and teahouses near the route. Getting there: The start at Takijiri-oji is a short bus ride from Kii-Tanabe Train Station, which is 2½ hours from Osaka. Buses run from the end at Nachi Taisha to Shingu Station, 3½ hours from Nagoya. Planning: Book accommodation well in advance on this popular route. Safety: Prepare for variable weather and steep climbs. Info: tb-kumano.jp
Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk, Te Urewera, Ngāi Tūhoe, Onepoto, Hopuruahine, Kumano Kodo, Nakahechi, Takijiri-oji, Nachi Taisha, Kumano Sanzan, onsen, UNESCO World Heritage