Gel Nail Ban: What Are The New Rules? Plus, The Glossy Alternative Manicures To Try
Following the news that the EU has banned TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide) – an ingredient found in gel manicures – many might be left wondering what that means for their beloved glossy nails going forward.
What is the ‘gel nail ban’?
The ingredient, which absorbs energy from UV or LED lamps, is used to aid the curing process and provide a long-lasting finish, and has been banned in the EU due to a number of studies pointing to its potential dangers. The ban was first announced last year, but came into effect on Saturday, August 15, 2026, where manufacturers can no longer sell new products containing TPO.
‘The reason why TPO has been banned in cosmetic products in the EU is based on its hazardous properties, meaning how a substance might behave under a “worst case” situation when our bodies are exposed to a very large amount,’ Caroline Rainsford, Director of Science at CTPA, shared in a statement. ‘The amount of this ingredient used in nail products is over a thousand times less than the amount which could have any negative effect on fertility and these products are applied to the nail, so the potential for the ingredient to be absorbed into our bodies is even smaller,’ she added.
Skin expert, aesthetic doctor and pharmacist, Dr Christine Hall, also told ELLE UK: ‘TPO is used as a photo initiator – it hardens the varnish – and it has just been reclassified as a Category 1B CMR (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic, or Reprotoxic) substance with reproductive implications, which automatically means that it is prohibited for use.’
When did the ban come into effect?
The new regulations – dubbed a ‘gel nail ban’ – came into effect over the weekend [August 15, 2026], but refer only to the ban of the ingredient TPO as opposed to all gel manicures.
The off-the-shelf deadline is February 14, 2027, which means existing TPO stock can be used in salons until it runs out – but new stock containing the ingredient won’t be sold.
What does the ban mean?
However, this needn’t cause alarm due to the doses found in gel manicures. ‘Anything can be lethal in the wrong doses. The studies carried out exposed animals to high doses and even ingestion of TPO and it was this that showed signs of reproductive harm,’ she shared.
‘The studies completed were in animals, not humans and the levels required to cause harm were significantly higher than those that are found in nail varnish. Even more reassuring is the fact that once the nails have hardened the TPO is locked safely into a matrix,’ she shared.
What are the alternatives?
Though gel manicures are not to be feared or demonised, there are a number of alternatives which offer the same high-shine finish without some of the notorious compromise of gels – including better nail health. From the rise of BIAB manicures to novel dip powder, discover three alternatives to switch up your classic gel manicure, below.
Builder gel
‘BIAB, short for Builder in a Bottle, is a soak-off gel developed to help strengthen, structure and encourage the natural nail to grow. Applied like a gel but with the durability of a builder, BIAB creates a protective barrier that adds strength and shape without the need for extensions,’ shares Giorgia Cappella, the Head of Education & Spa at The GelBottle Inc.
‘Unlike acrylics, BIAB doesn’t require harsh chemicals or heavy filing, making it a gentler option that supports natural nail health over time. It’s the best of both worlds: strong, beautiful nails with minimal damage,’ she shares.
Dip powder manicure
Slightly lesser-known in the world of pro nail treatments, dip powder involves applying a liquid base coat to your nail, then dipping the nails into a coloured powder, and doesn’t require curing with a UV lamp.
If you’re looking for a glossy alternative that avoids UV light – while also offering a manicure with up to 3 weeks staying power and a strong, durable finish – this one’s for you.
Bio-sourced gel polish
The USP of bio-sourced polish, Manucurist? Not only is it a TPO-free gel alternative that has promise for your nail’s health (think: less breakage, more shine), but it’s the first manicure that can be removed like a normal polish (a saviour for anyone prone to picking off their gels ahead of a removal appointment).
With impressive longevity, those looking for a more sustainable option without any controversial ingredients, should opt for Manucurist’s fuss-free Green Flash Kits, which can be DIY’d at home or in the salon – no acetone required.
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