Anti-gray serums promise reversal—but dermatologists say no

Search interest in anti-gray serums has surged, but dermatologists say there’s no definitive evidence that serums or supplements can truly reverse gray hair. They explain why hair turns gray, why stress and genetics matter, what products may actually do, and t

By the time the first silver strand shows up. the pitch is already waiting—bright bottles. daily routines. and promises that gray hair can be “reversed.” In the United States. online search interest in anti-gray hair serums has climbed 280% in the past year. a trend driven by products marketed as turn-back-the-clock fixes.

But in clinics, the message is more blunt. Dermatologists told TODAY.com that based on available science, there are no products that “definitively” reverse gray hair.

Getting gray hair starts with the biology. Unless a person dyes their hair, it eventually starts to lose color over time—often beginning when people are in their 30s or 40s, according to the Cleveland Clinic. Dermatologists describe graying as a normal part of life.

“We’re all born with a certain number of hair follicles and a predetermined number of hair follicle cycles. and there are little pigment-producing factories in our hair follicles (where hair grows out of the scalp) called melanocytes that give us our hair color. ” Dr. Mona Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist based in Connecticut, told TODAY in a segment aired August 2.

Hair color depends on how melanocytes function over time. Dr. Jonathan Zippin, dermatologist at Weill Cornell Medicine, said graying is predominantly due to melanocytes not renewing. Melanocytes live at the midpoint of the hair. Zippin said. and when they need to replicate. they migrate to the base of the hair follicle to produce pigment—melanin.

There are two different types of melanin that dictate hair color. Zippin explained. and the amount and mixture determine whether hair appears black. brown. red. or blonde. Graying occurs when “those melanocytes are no longer moving and populating the bottom of the hair,” Zippin said. With too few melanin-producing cells at the base. the hair appears gray; when there are none at all. the hair appears white.

Why melanocytes stop working the way they used to isn’t fully settled. Gohara said, “Sometimes the melanocytes get tired. They just don’t want to work anymore,” adding that genetics likely also play a role. The age when graying starts and how far it goes varies from person to person.

Stress and medications enter the conversation too, but not in a way products can reliably harness. Dermatologists said factors like stress or medications may contribute. Zippin pointed to studies in mice suggesting stress can lead to melanocyte damage and gray hair. A 2021 study found that stress can lead to gray hair in humans. and that removing stress appears to reverse the process—allowing white strands to return to the natural color at the root. That effect was described as temporary, limited to a certain age group and only a few hair follicles.

“We also know that there are some medicines that can affect the melanocytes or stress them, and in that instance, that could lead to gray hair,” Zippin said.

Against that backdrop, the market moves fast. In recent years, an increasing number of anti-gray hair products have entered the market, amplified by social media. Some serums promise to delay or even reverse gray hair within a few months when applied daily. and some popular formulas include ingredients like caffeine. peptides. and vitamins.

Zippin said the problem is what those ingredients are actually able to do at the level melanocytes require. “Whether the melanocytes are actually nudged is questionable. … I don’t know that we have any definitive science to say that’s happening,” Gohara said.

The same uncertainty applies to gray hair attributed to stress. Zippin said that if gray hair is caused by stress and the stressors are removed, it could reverse gray hair—“but has that been done pharmacologically? No.”

Supplements are another major part of the pitch. Companies sell blends of vitamins, and B12 is especially popular. The Cleveland Clinic says vitamin B (as well as vitamin A and biotin) have been shown to play a role in hair growth and follicle health. But even with that connection, dermatologists said there’s no evidence that supplements can definitively delay or halt graying.

According to experts, there are no scientific studies showing that certain supplements—including vitamin B12—will prevent or reverse gray hair in humans.

“I think it’s fair to say that we don’t truly understand what causes gray hair. Therefore, it’s hard to know whether any particular product will be successful because we don’t know what mechanism we’re really trying to reverse,” Zippin said.

For people considering anti-gray serums and supplements, dermatologists say the biggest immediate concerns are practical—not dramatic health risks. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration does not review anti-gray hair products for safety before they hit the market. but Gohara said she considers them to be low risk and “pretty safe to try.”.

Potential side effects may include scalp irritation from serums or gastrointestinal issues from supplements, Gohara added. “In general, I don’t think any of these are going to hurt anybody,” Zippin said.

Still, allergic or adverse skin reactions are possible when trying any new serum or topical product. If a new irritation or rash shows up after using a product, Zippin said people should stop using it immediately. Gohara suggested trying serums on a small area first and checking with a doctor before trying a new product if a person has questions.

In the end, dermatologists said even when these products don’t cause harm, they can cost money. “At the end of the day, there’s always hair dye — or embracing your natural hair, grays and all,” experts said.

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