After nearly two decades at France-Soir, industry veteran Franck Sammut is launching his own approachable dining venue, Upper Middle, in South Melbourne.
After spending nearly two decades refining his craft at the iconic France-Soir, Franck Sammut is finally stepping out on his own with the opening of Upper Middle in South Melbourne this May.
Sammut is moving away from the complex engineering of modern dining to focus on the basics of hospitality. His goal is to strip back the experience to something warmer and more intuitive for his guests.
This shift towards simplicity reminds us that the core of great hospitality often lies in human connection rather than culinary trends or complex presentation.
His impressive resume includes stints at Bistro Thierry and Stokehouse, but it was his tenure at France-Soir that truly shaped his philosophy. He believes that eating out should feel effortless, prioritizing a welcoming atmosphere over exclusivity.
Head chef Lakshay Kapoor has developed a menu that leans into this understated approach. The food offering is split between high-quality baguettes, house-made pizzas, and a European-inspired brunch menu.
The baguette program features 30-centimeter loaves sourced from local bakers, finished in the venue’s ovens. Ingredients range from classic prosciutto with stracciatella to cured salmon with fresh dill and capers, proving that quality sourcing is the primary ingredient here.
Pizza options follow a similar path of restraint.. Customers can choose from a well-executed margherita or more adventurous combinations like nduja paired with salami and house-made jalapeño honey.. The brunch side of the business mirrors this European influence with staples like truffled mushrooms and eggs Benedict with a signature whipped hollandaise.
The design of the space, handled by local studio In Addition, helps reinforce this relaxed mood. Using a palette of timber, green, and stone, the room feels lived-in and comfortable from the very first day.
Vintage French newspaper clippings and personal photographs from his father’s restaurant, La Brasserie, anchor the space in tradition. These touches connect the new venue to the history Sammut was raised in, effectively bridging the gap between his past and present.
By focusing on approachable service and a comfortable atmosphere, Sammut is highlighting that successful neighborhood dining often succeeds precisely because it avoids trying too hard to impress.
Upper Middle will operate with a flexible schedule, catering to both quick daytime visits and slower evening meals. While a more formal dining room is on the horizon, the focus remains firmly on keeping the experience accessible for everyone who walks through the door.