Complete Guide to Samarkand – Uzbekistan’s Silk Road City

Despite having not done too much research for my solo trip in Central Asia, there was one destination I knew needed to feature on my vague itinerary.

That was Samarkand.

Time and time again, I had heard fellow travellers describe it as one of the highlights of their journey, and a quick Google image search was enough to convince me. I was captivated by the dazzling turquoise domes, intricate mosaics and grand Islamic architecture that I would later learn from a local guide was inspired by that of Persia (modern-day Iran). 

Samarkand was the second stop on my Central Asia adventure, after Tashkent – the country’s capital city. Pulling up in a taxi close to Registan Hostel, I opened the door to the most spectacular sight – Registan Square. I knew my hostel would be close to this iconic landmark, but not this close. This enormous complex was far more exquisite than any image on Google I had seen, and I could not help but smile at the taxi driver and say, “Oh wow, it’s so beautiful”, to which he happily agreed. 

Up until then, Uzbekistan had already exceeded my expectations, and it was just the second stop of my itinerary. Little did I know this would end up being one of my highlights too, just as fellow travellers had promised. 

About the location

Samarkand is located in southeastern Uzbekistan. It’s almost always included in a typical Uzbekistan itinerary, whether coming from the north or south. Getting from Tashkent to Samarkand by train takes under 3 hours by slow train – but this depends on which type of train you book (express, slow, etc). 

The city’s strategic location along the famous Silk Road is one of its top features since it was what put the city on the map.

For centuries, merchants travelled this route from China to Europe, stopping along the way to sell goods like spices, silk, cashmere, and tea. Today, these items can easily be bought in the region. 

Samarkand is a pivotal starting point for many travellers who plan to visit other destinations like Bukhara or Khiva, south of the city or even a day trip to Tajikistan, whose border is located just 43 km (1 hour) away. It is also quite a common place to begin a wider Central Asia trip like mine, especially since Samarkand is incredibly developed and a great place to ease yourself into a new culture.

From here, exploring other neighbouring countries by train or flight is quite easy and a common practice. 

How to get there

It was just the beginning of my adventure in this new region of the world for me, but I had quickly learned that train travel was the way to go – especially between cities.

For shorter journeys, Yandex (the equivalent and much cheaper version of Uber) was commonly used. While I had not done much planning before arriving, I did have the Uzbekistan Railways app and the Yandex app downloaded on my phone, so I could easily book transport. 

One thing I had noticed was that train tickets sold out quite fast, since it was the peak season and trains are used by both locals and travellers. I had met travellers who had booked their trains months in advance, and I felt like I had made an error with the little research I had done.

I booked the only available train, which took an hour longer than the express train that many others preferred. Yet, this was not a deal-breaker for me. Most of my train travel cost between 12 and 14 euros, and once I arrived at my destination, I would take a cheap and fast Yandex to my hostel. 

During the train ride, we were given complimentary tea, and I enjoyed a delightful conversation with my Uzbek neighbour who was travelling to Samarkand on business. He pointed out the sights along the way as we shared a green tea.

When I arrived, many taxi drivers waited at the train station, but I knew that they could often charge more than Yandex, so I walked to a quiet corner and booked my Yandex driver to take me to my hostel, which cost just 🇺🇿UZS 20,679› for an 8km journey.

As this was my first journey between Uzbek cities, I was quite surprised at how efficient and developed it all was. It seemed way more advanced than Europe, in my eyes. 

Where to stay in Samarkand

Given that Registan Square is the jewel in the crown of Samarkand, I knew I wanted to be within walking distance of this great landmark. I was prepared to fork out a little extra for this privilege, yet I was shocked to learn that the modern, clean and ultra-comfortable Registan Hostel was a five-minute walk from the complex and cost just 11 euros per night.

I could not help but think of European accommodation prices beside major landmarks like The Colosseum in Rome or the Eiffel Tower in Paris, where these prices were unheard of. Every time I got a “good deal” in Uzbekistan, I prepared to be let down in some way as if there was some catch I had missed – but this never came.

Registan Hostel was a quiet hostel with female-only dorm options (which I liked since men tend to snore), a large common area with plenty of tables and chairs for working or eating, a small kitchen and lockers for your valuables.

What I loved about the culture was that you were always given a pair of plastic sliders to wear around the hostel, similar to those in Japan but less fashionable. But it was a clever way to keep the areas clean. 

Apart from wanting to be close to Registan Square, I also wanted to be within walking distance of other attractions, which included the local bazaar, mosques and shopping streets, as well as local restaurants and cafes.

My hostel was conveniently located next to a tiny hole-in-the-wall style coffee shop with just a couple of tables outside. I visited here three times and enjoyed chatting with the staff who discussed the emerging coffee culture in Uzbekistan – despite this being a tea country. 

Book a stay at registan hostel

Samarkand is the kind of place where you can find accommodation for all budgets, but you will certainly get value for money compared to other countries.

Apart from the affordability, some of the hotels in Samarkand boast exceptional views over the famous complex, giving the Taj Mahal in India a run for its money. On my return journey, whenever that may be, I will be sure to book a hotel with a view over this beautiful sight. 

Some excellent accommodation options for all budgets in Samarkand include:

• $ Registan Hostel is where I stayed – ideal if you want to stay right by the Registan Square.
• $ Old Radio Hostel is a family-run place built around a courtyard shaded by grapevines. The owner cooks breakfast himself and marks up maps for guests heading out.
• $$ Rabat Boutique Hotel is a 1906 merchant’s house with rooms opening onto a fruit-tree courtyard and a painted dining-room ceiling that’s original to the building. 10 minutes’ walk from the Registan.
• $$ Bibikhanum Hotel features 2 storeys of rooms around a courtyard on a pedestrian street beside Bibi-Khanym Mosque. Breakfast is on the roof terrace, looking straight at the blue domes.
• $$$ Hotel Minor – directly opposite the Registan, with a rooftop terrace where you can watch the evening light show over dinner tables.
• $$$ Movenpick Samarkand is the city’s international-standard option: indoor and outdoor pools, spa, gym, buffet breakfast, walkable to the Registan and Gur-e-Amir.

How long to stay in Samarkand

I stayed just two days in Samarkand, which was not enough, and I wished I had allocated more time. I would suggest staying at least 3 – 4 days and adding an extra day if you plan to do the Tajikistan day trip. 

Many attractions within the city limits will keep you busy, but it is worth noting that there are other incredible places to visit outside the city, which I was recommended but did not have the time to visit. One example is the Tomb of Imam Bukhari, located 20km out of the city, which many locals spoke highly of.

If you only have a day or two, like me, I would highly advise prioritising Registan Square (inside and out), the light show, Shah-i Zinda Necropolis and Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum. In between these visits, you will pass by the local mosques and bazaar, since they are located close to each other, so you won’t miss out on seeing them briefly. 

Bukhara or Samarkand?

This is a common question among travellers visiting Central Asia for the first time, and honestly, this was something I wondered while planning my trip.

I had heard mixed things from other travellers, some who preferred the grandiosity and allure of Samarkand – a place that certainly had the wow factor- and some who loved the mud brick buildings that defined Bukhara and gave it a historic, biblical feel. 

Having visited both, I would say that this heavily depends on your interests and travel style.

Both cities have their own unique features and plenty of historic sights to behold, but if you prefer traditional settings as if time stood still, then Bukhara is the place for you. Whereas Samarkand is the kind of city I think every traveller should visit at least once in their lifetime.

The easy answer is to visit both, but many travellers do lean towards Bukhara for its very unique aesthetics – it feels like a movie set! 

Check out my Bukhara travel guide for the full recap.

Best things to do in Samarkand

While I did not have many “regrets” from my Central Asia trip, one that stands out is not spending more time in Samarkand. I had misjudged just how much time it takes to see and do everything, despite the attractions being so close together. I laugh thinking that I had originally planned just one day here to do everything – it is impossible.  

However, with the two days that I did have, I made sure to see and do as much as I could without feeling rushed. I would later meet a wise Swiss woman in Bukhara who would describe “the joy of missing out”, rather than “the fear of missing out”, and I guess this was my version. 

1. Walking tour in Samarkand

As a history buff, I love to know what exactly I am looking at when I visit attractions. It is not enough to take photos of pretty buildings without knowing what their purpose was – and that is where walking tours come in very handy.

From my previous experiences doing walking tours around the world, I also knew this would be an amazing way to meet other travellers, and that is exactly what happened. 

After a quick Google search in Tashkent, I noticed that FreeTours.com was a popular choice in Central Asia, and that a donation-based walking tour was available in almost every city in Uzbekistan and beyond.

I did an incredible walking tour in Tashkent and decided to find one in Samarkand. My guide this time round was female, and getting her perspective on life in Uzbekistan, arranged marriages, and life as a woman here was highly interesting. 

I learned that while Uzbekistan is primarily Muslim, there is a strong sense of religious tolerance, and people are generally free to practise their faith openly. What stood out to me most was the openness and coexistence between different beliefs.

Having previously lived in the Middle East, I initially expected a similar cultural experience. However, Uzbekistan felt quite different.

With its unique blend of Persian, Turkic, Islamic, and Chinese influences, the country has its own distinct identity that doesn’t quite compare to anywhere else I’ve travelled. I would highly recommend these walking tours not only to take you to the popular landmarks, but also to learn about the culture from a local. And yes, I made lots of friends whom I continued to meet up with during my trip. 

2. Registan Square

Of course, Registan Square was the first place I visited, since it took less than five minutes to reach on foot. I had caught a glimpse of it as I stepped out of the taxi, but after a quick photo, I wanted to check into my hostel, drop my bags off and then enjoy the square luggage-free.

Walking from the hostel to the square took me through a lush green park with fountains, trees and plenty of benches where locals gathered for some downtime or much-needed shade. 

It was too late in the day to visit the inside of the complex, and honestly, I wasn’t sure if it would be “worth it”, so I spent the first afternoon getting some photos and taking it all in.

The complex, which was made up of tall minarets, three grand madrasas (traditional schools) and a vast courtyard, was such a sight to see from the outside, but the following day, when I decided to enter, I was so happy I did. 

The ticket cost around 🇺🇿UZS 96,502› and granted you access to the entire complex, each of which had its own story to tell. The only downside was the fact that upon entry to the beautiful, intricate courtyards, you couldn’t help but notice all the shops selling souvenirs.

In my opinion, this slightly took away from the experience, as it did for other travellers I met, but I would still highly recommend visiting these stunning areas regardless. 

They say that Registan Square is one of the most magical landmarks of Central Asia, and I would agree; in fact, I believe that it needs to be appreciated at various times of the day as the sun changes its appearance – and sunset is just spectacular. 

3. Shah-i Zinda Necropolis

Shah-i Zinda Necropolis is one of the most visually stunning sites in Samarkand and a must-visit for anyone interested in Islamic architecture.

You may recognise it from social media, since it is a visually aesthetic location that attracts influencers – and you can’t blame them.

Essentially, this is a long avenue of mausoleums lined with some of the most detailed and vibrant tilework in the country, with shades of blue, turquoise, and gold covering nearly every surface. 

The site is believed to contain the tomb of Qusam ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad, making it an important pilgrimage site.

Walking through Shah-i-Zinda feels incredibly atmospheric, almost like a journey through time, with each mausoleum telling its own story. This rated quite high on fellow travellers’ lists when we discussed highlights of Samarkand, so don’t miss this. 

4. Siab Bazar

Whenever I travel, I always seek out local markets, and Uzbekistan did not disappoint. Having visited Chorsu Bazar in Tashkent, I knew I needed to find the Samarkand equivalent, and luckily it was among the other attractions I was visiting.

After seeing Registan from the outside, I continued on down the long avenue that led past shops, restaurants and parklands to eventually come to Siab Bazar.

This is the ultimate spot for picking up delicious dried fruit like apricots, mango and dates as well as tea, silk and cashmere. I grabbed a large bag of dried apricots and browsed the stalls throughout the complex, which – as a backpacker travelling light, was self-inflicted torture. I wanted it all.

Here you could also find such beautiful crafts, tea pots and other precious ornaments, which I wished I could carry safely in my luggage – but I decided not to risk it.

If you are planning to do some shopping and pick up souvenirs, this is the best place to do it, but there are also many shops lining the avenues which sell handcrafted items if you are in search of something specific. 

5. Registan Square Light Show

One thing you should know about the light show is that it is unmissable. Visiting Registan Square at sunset and then watching the light show is an amazing way to spend an evening here.

I attended the light show twice, once with a new Italian friend from my walking tour in Tashkent, and the second night with a new American friend I had met on the same walking tour. 

It is worth noting that there are different types of light shows, and the first one I witnessed can only be described as a cinematic masterpiece.

As darkness falls, the madrasas are illuminated with a carefully choreographed display of lights, colours, and storytelling that highlights the history of the Silk Road and the city itself.

However, when we returned the second night, it was not the same experience. Yes, it was a light show, but there was no storytelling or visuals involved. I later found out that the storytelling light show happens at random, and you have to be lucky to catch it. 

6. Bibi-Khanym Mosque

This mosque is located right next to Siab Bazar, so you cannot miss it. I had walked past it and taken a photo, but did not enter. The next day, on my walking tour, I saw it again and learned the history of it from my guide. 

According to legend, it was built in honour of Amir Timur’s wife, and although time and earthquakes have taken their toll, the scale of the mosque still reflects the ambition of the Timurid Empire. Standing beneath its entrance feels humbling, especially when you imagine what it must have looked like in its prime.  

7. Day trip to Tajikistan

Looking back, if I had some extra time in Samarkand, I would certainly have opted for this tour. However, I had planned just a week in Uzbekistan and did not want to “mess up” my schedule. Little did I know that I would need to allocate so much time to some other places further along in my itinerary. 

From various friends I had met during this trip, I was assured that the day trip to Tajikistan was truly worth it. It is a very long day trip that takes you from Samarkand across the border to Panjakent, where you spend the day exploring the Seven Lakes region of this lesser-visited country.

The landscapes are said to be completely different from Uzbekistan, with dramatic mountain scenery and crystal-clear lakes. It’s definitely something I regret missing and would recommend considering if you have the time and border logistics work in your favour. 

take the day trip to tajikistan

8. Hazrat Khizr Mosque 

During our walking tour, we visited Hazrat Khizr Mosque as the sun was setting, and it was a stunning place to take it all in.

The mosque is within walking distance of the city centre, but gives you an overview of the city and its incredible architecture. It is one of the oldest mosques in Samarkand and offers a quieter, more peaceful experience compared to the city’s larger monuments. 

Perched on a hill, it provides beautiful panoramic views over the city, including distant glimpses of Registan Square and surrounding neighbourhoods.

The mosque has been rebuilt and restored over time, but it still retains a sense of history and calm that makes it worth a short visit, and I was so happy we visited at sunset. 

9. Visit Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum (Timur’s Tomb)

Our walking tour began at the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, which is one of Samarkand’s most important historical sites and the resting place of the great conqueror Timur (Tamerlane). The exterior is instantly recognisable thanks to its striking turquoise dome, which has become a symbol of the city. 

Inside, the atmosphere is far more restrained and quieter, with richly decorated interiors and ornate tombstones marking the burial site of Timur and his descendants.

Despite its relatively small size compared to other monuments in Samarkand, it carries enormous historical significance and offers a fascinating insight into the power of the Timurid dynasty. 

Where to eat & drink (and what dishes to try)

I always try to eat local food whenever I travel, but one thing I was worried about was the abundance of horsemeat in Central Asia. Although I did try a very small piece on my walking tour in Tashkent, I tried to stick to beef or chicken (pork is not an option as it is a Muslim country).

A few local dishes which I loved were:

• Plov: Made with rice, carrots, onions, and meat (usually beef or lamb), it’s cooked in a large kazan (cauldron) and served throughout the country. Every region has its own variation, but I found myself ordering it constantly during my time in Uzbekistan, and they were all very different but tasty. 
• Samsa: These are often compared to a samosa and are perfect on-the-go snacks or for train rides, etc. They are flaky pastries filled with meat, onions, or vegetables and traditionally baked in a tandoor oven. 
• Shashlik – grilled meat skewers that you’ll find everywhere, from street stalls to restaurants. Usually made with lamb, beef, chicken, or sometimes horse meat, they are simple, affordable, and incredibly tasty. Some local restaurants don’t even have a menu; you simply choose your meat and watch it being cooked over the grill, and I loved this way of ordering.
• Manti: These large steamed dumplings are typically filled with minced meat and onions. Soft, comforting, and filling, they make a great lunch after a morning of sightseeing.
• Lagman: This is almost like an Uzbek noodle stir-fry, which was really delicious and readily available throughout the country. The cheapest dishes were usually Lagman, Plov or Shashlik.
• Uzbek Bread (Non): I first tried this traditional round bread known as non at the Chorsu Bazar in Tashkent, and I was blown away. Freshly baked and often decorated with intricate patterns, it’s sold throughout Uzbekistan and widely regarded by many travellers as some of the best bread they have ever tasted – and I agree. 
• Dried Fruits & Nuts (at the market/bazar): One of my favourite discoveries was the incredible selection of dried fruit available at local markets. I practically lived off dried apricots and mango, but there are raisins, dates and a huge variety of delicious nuts, all of which were available at excellent prices. The markets are also packed with almonds, pistachios, walnuts, and other snacks that are perfect for long travel days. 

My favourite dining options/cafes include:

Other popular options include:

Tip: Outside Kafe Dil, you will find a kiosk with a variety of cheap samsa and other pastries to take away. This was helpful when I was hungry, but the restaurants were not open. 

Best time to visit

The best time to visit Samarkand is during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) months, when temperatures are comfortable and ideal for exploring the city’s historic sites on foot.

During these shoulder seasons, you can enjoy clear skies, comfortable sightseeing weather, and fewer extreme temperatures compared to the peak summer months.

I had asked an Uzbek friend about visiting in May, and she informed me that it would be hot but nowhere near as hot as the peak summer season – and she was right.

May was the perfect time, when crowds were not yet gathering at major attractions, and the sun was not preventing you from exploring comfortably. I had learned that most people visit during the main summer season when temperatures average 40+,  which sounded crazy to me. 

Tips & advice

Below is a rundown of some of the things I would advise when visiting Samarkand.

• Make sure you dress in respectful clothing when visiting sights. Women should have a scarf to cover their hair and clothing to cover their shoulders. Samarkand is less “strict” since it is a tourist site, but I always wore something like this out of respect for the culture.
• I opted for the audio guide for Registan Square, which was 🇺🇿UZS 96,502› (the same price as the entrance fee), and would not recommend it. While the information was interesting, there were only 3 – 4 stories, and you could only keep the guide for an hour. 
• Visit outdoor attractions in the morning before the heat of the day, and save museums and indoor attractions for the hottest times.
• Download the Yandex and Uzbekistan Railway apps before you arrive and set up your card as a payment method for the times when you may not have cash.
• Samarkand does have an international airport with flights from certain cities like Istanbul, Moscow, Dubai, and a few regional hubs in Central Asia, if you prefer to fly directly there.
• Get an e-sim before you arrive, as it is much easier than trying to organise a local SIM card. I did this for each destination in Central Asia, and it was seamless.
• Locals appreciate it if you know a few local phrases in either Russian or Uzbek. 
• Uzbekistan is one of the safest countries I have ever been to, and a local guide who lived in Japan even told me he felt that Uzbekistan was safer than Japan – which is saying something. 
• Get comfortable with haggling – it is expected and welcomed in Uzbekistan, which I loved. 

Where to go next

Next up, you should visit Bukhara, which is just a 3-hour train ride from Samarkand. This is a common stop-off for many people either before or after visiting Samarkand, and because the cities are so vastly different, they both deserve your time.

Alternatively, if you have arrived from Bukhara, I would suggest visiting Tashkent for a day or two. Despite not being a city person, I loved Tashkent, especially its Soviet metro stations, grand complexes and modern vibe.