Upper Middle Opens: Franck Sammut Brings Relaxed South Melbourne Dining
After 18 years at France-Soir, Franck Sammut launches Upper Middle, a relaxed South Melbourne venue focused on warm hospitality and simple European-style food.
A familiar dining instinct is making a comeback in South Melbourne, and Franck Sammut is leading it with Upper Middle.
Opening on Tuesday, May 4, the new spot is pitched as an antidote to overbuilt restaurant experiences.. Sammut, who spent 18 years front-of-house at France-Soir and has also worked at Bistro Thierry and Stokehouse, says the goal is comfort first: warmth, simplicity, and the feeling that you can walk in and enjoy yourself without “engineering” the evening.
That mindset flows into the kitchen and, importantly, into the menu concept. Head chef Lakshay Kapoor’s offering keeps things anchored around pizza and baguette sandwiches, supported by a European-leaning brunch.
A short insight: In a restaurant scene that often chases complexity, a focus on straightforward welcoming service can stand out simply because it lowers the “effort” for diners.
For baguettes, the restaurant uses a shorter style, about 30 centimetres long, prepared at Baker In The Rye and finished in Upper Middle ovens.. The filling lineup leans classic and generous, including options like tomato and basil pesto, ribbons of DOP prosciutto layered with stracciatella, and house-cured salmon with dill cream, fennel, and capers.. There’s also a poached chicken version with kipfler potato, grilled peppers, and a sharp house dressing.
Pizza dough is made in-house, while the topping choices stay restrained.. The menu highlights a margherita and a potato pizza with rosemary and parmesan, alongside richer combinations such as ’nduja with salami and a touch of jalapeno honey, and a prawns option with lemon and herbs.. Sammut sums it up as good produce handled simply.
A slightly more detailed insight: This approach matters because “simple” only lands when ingredients and technique do the heavy lifting, especially for bread, dough, and brunch staples.
On the brunch side, Upper Middle leans into familiar favourites with a European tilt.. Expect truffled mushrooms on sourdough, brioche French toast with vanilla cream and berries, and eggs Benedict with whipped hollandaise.. Pastries are supplied by AM Bakehouse in Glen Iris, with pasteis de nata coming from Casa Nata.
The beverage menu keeps it practical and varied, with St Ali coffee plus cold-pressed juices and smoothies. A small wine list by the glass rounds it out, including sparkling, pinot gris, and a short run of reds.
In terms of layout and pacing, the venue begins with daytime trade and casual evenings, designed for quick lunches and low-key dinners with an easy walk-in rhythm.. A more formal dining room is planned later in the year, but Sammut says the intention will be to keep it from feeling challenging for diners.
Final insight: The point of Upper Middle, Misryoum suggests, isn’t to reinvent hospitality, but to make it feel human again, from the food display to the pace of the night.
Upper Middle
34 Eastern Road, South Melbourne
No phone
Hours: Sun to Wed 7am–4pm; Thu to Sat 7am–4pm, 7pm–late