After nearly two decades at France-Soir, Franck Sammut is launching Upper Middle in South Melbourne, focusing on simple, welcoming hospitality and classic European-style fare.
After 18 years serving as a staple at France-Soir, Franck Sammut is stepping away from the grand dining room scene to launch his own venture, Upper Middle, in South Melbourne.
Opening Tuesday, May 4, the venue serves as a rejection of the overly engineered dining trends that currently dominate the market.. Instead, Sammut is focused on returning to the roots of hospitality, where the main goal is simply making patrons feel genuinely looked after the moment they walk through the door.
This move signals a broader shift in the local dining scene, where seasoned professionals are moving away from high-concept prestige projects to prioritize comfort and approachable, neighborhood-style service.
At the heart of the kitchen, head chef Lakshay Kapoor has curated a menu that values ingredient quality over complexity.. The food program centers on house-made pizza and a refined selection of 30-centimetre baguettes finished in the restaurant’s own ovens.. Whether it is the prosciutto and stracciatella sandwich or a classic margherita pizza, the focus remains firmly on well-executed, familiar staples.
The breakfast and lunch menu leans into a European aesthetic, featuring staples like truffled mushrooms on sourdough and brioche French toast.. Pastries are sourced from specialist local bakers, ensuring that even the quick bites feel intentional and well-considered.. A small, curated wine list complements the daytime service, allowing the space to pivot seamlessly from morning coffee to low-key evening dinners.
Designed by the local studio In Addition, the space intentionally avoids a sterile, modern look.. Instead, it leans into the aesthetics of traditional European bakeries, featuring warm textures of timber and stone.. A wall dedicated to vintage photographs from his father’s 1991 restaurant, La Brasserie, serves as a poignant reminder of the hospitality lineage Sammut is channeling for his new project.
While a more formal dining expansion is on the horizon for later this year, the core philosophy will remain unchanged. Sammut is adamant that his venue should never feel challenging or intimidating for guests, regardless of how the business evolves.
By anchoring his business in personal history and simple comfort, Sammut is proving that the most sustainable path for modern hospitality might just be a return to the basics.